Spain calls on Unesco to recognise tapas on cultural heritage list

The varied, mouthwatering delights of Spanish tapas – from the ingredients, to the very way of dining – are angling for Unesco recognition.

Spain has given the world many things: Flamenco, Sherry, Bullfighting, Julio Iglesias and millions of hours of unfortunate sunburn, but perhaps the country is best known – and best loved – for its contribution to gastronomy…

From El Bulli’s world-altering experimental cooking to those frozen paella bags you can buy from Iceland, Spanish food has shaped the world in many ways. And it is tapas that is probably the most famous and widespread of the lot.

Indeed, such has been the proliferation of tapas restaurants in the UK in recent years – driven primarily by the spike in Spanish nationals moving to Britain during the depths of Spain’s economic crisis, but since maintained by Brits’ evident love of this way of dining – that supermarket tapas ranges have increased their sales in the UK 40% year-on-year since 2013.

The variety, combination of flavours and textures, portion sizes and affordability of tapas makes it a perennial favourite when eating out, so much so that Spain’s Royal Academy of Gastronomy has called on Unesco to place Spanish tapas on its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Now, most people will be aware of Unesco for the good work they do in promoting and protecting historic sites, but they also award protection on a whole range of cultural assets – including ‘intangibles’ such as living practices, skills and certain artisanal craftsmanship. 

“Tapas are the very model of food,” said the president of the Royal Academy of Gastronomy, Rafael Anson. “Pizza in itself is not an intangible, but the concept of the Mediterranean diet, for example, is. 

“Tapas, too, are a way of eating,” he added. Anson has been behind the Academy’s push to see tapas recognised, and remarked that the project is “very advanced”. 

“The Ministry of Culture will make the formal presentation but I have spoken to Unesco and they are already looking into it,” Anson said. 

Unesco already recognises the Mediterranean diet as a cultural heritage asset, while Flamenco and Catalonia’s famous human towers are also already on the list. Among such esteemed company, tapas would certainly feel at home… and if Italy gets its way, it will not be the only foodstuff to make it – Naples is currently trying to convince Unesco to admit “the art of Neapolitan pizza making.” 

Let’s hope Scotland, with its love for deep-fried Mars Bars, doesn’t get any ideas…